cquard Procion Tie Dye Powder Magenta 8oz Jar - Powder Dye for Tie Dye - Permanent & Washfast Powder Tie Dye - Use as Ice Tie Dye Powder, Cold Water Dye for Fabric & Clothing Dye
S**S
When all else fails... read the directions!
Easy to use and mix. Truer color with lasting results. So much better than Rit dyes. But follow mixing instructions to a tee. DON'T GO BY THE MIXED LIQUID COLOR YOU SEE. The first time I tried to dye pants an emerald green, I mixed the colors per the instructions and the mix looked mustard yellowish pea green. Yuck. So I played chemist and added colors until the mix was a beautiful green. When I ran it through the soak process my pants came out dark BROWN. I had to bleach them four times to get the color light enough to color over. When I did the process again (following the color mix chart this time) the nasty color mix turned the pants the beautiful green I wanted. Lesson #1 learned.Another instruction to not skip... I pulled a pair of shorts from my drawer to dye navy blue. They were beautiful at first but then faded with the first wash. My fault! I didn't think I needed the pre-wash step since the shorts were clean. But I use a fabric softener and that binds to the cloth so the dye won't hold. Definitely wash first with a detergent that has no additives or softeners. And don't use a fabric dryer sheet either. Lesson #2 learned!Since following the instructions I've successfully dyed several pieces and they all came out great.P.S. I'm posting this review for the Jet Black, Turquoise, Lemon Yellow and Fuchsia as I bought the four colors that are the basis for all other colors in the spectrum (CMYK in printing terms).
S**C
I use it for quilting
I’m a quilter and I like to ice dye my own fabrics for use in my craft. This is my favorite dye, it’s permanent and the color is vibrant. Also, because it’s such a fine powder, it doesn’t leave little speckles all over the fabric like granule dyes (Rit) tend to do. My process: I cut bleached muslin fabric to desired size (usually 2 yard pieces) then soak it in a soda ash/water solution for 30 minutes to and hour. This prepares the fabric and allows the dye to adhere and be permanent. I wring the fabric to remove excess solution and place on a baker’s rack over a plastic tub. Cover fabric well with ice and then sprinkle and layer desired dye colors. After ice melts, I cover with a tarp or plastic (so it won’t dry out) and let sit over night. Next morning, I rinse well with water hose and throw into washer with some Retayne (color setter) and wash with hot water. Then I do a cold wash with a color catcher and voila, beautiful hand dyed fabric ready to make quilts! I’ve been using this dye for about 3 years and never had issues with bleeding or fading. *Pictured quilt was made entirely with hand dyed fabrics with the exception of the white background*
X**
Beware!!
This is advertised as an 8oz and I selected 8oz, however I received the smallest container. I paid almost 20 for it but was sent the 0.75 container. I do not appreciate being conned out of money and the false advertisement.
A**E
Great -- if sometimes unpredictable -- results
I bought this kit to dye a few white t-shirts that I've been using as undershirts for the last few years. The t-shirts had perspiration stains under the arms, but I love the fabric and fit so much that I wanted to see if I could rescue them. Now, all the dyeing websites will tell you not to work on old, stained clothing. That is probably prudent advice, as I'll discuss later! I was willing to take the risk, especially as practice learning how to dye in case I decide on a larger project down the road.What I love about this set is that it contains the printer's primaries -- cyan, magenta, and yellow, plus black -- so that you can mix your own colors. With just three shirts to dye, I could have bought three premixed colors instead of four primaries. But I find that a bit limiting, and wanted to have fun mixing my own. This kit also includes enough soda ash to do about 5-6 dye baths (bucket method), but if you run out, Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda is 100% soda ash and readily available for a few bucks at the grocery store or drugstore.I dyed my shirts using the immersion method in a 5-gallon bucket (actually, mine was a 4-gallon kitty litter bucket). You can do this in the washing machine, but you have to use a lot more dye, soda ash, and salt, and you still have to babysit the machine to make sure it doesn't start the rinse cycle before you're ready. I find it more economical and not that much more labor-intensive to just do it in a bucket. For the first shirt, I was trying for sort of an indigo color, a deep blue-purple. I mixed 3/4 tsp. of the fuchsia dye and 1 1/4 tsp. of the turquoise in a mason jar and added a little bit of water to make a paste, then a little more water to get a pourable dye. I filled my bucket a little over halfway with water, added two cups of non-iodized table salt, stirred to dissolve, and then added the dye. Finally, I added my t-shirt, which I had dampened. After stirring off and on for about 20 minutes, I mixed 1/3 cup of soda ash into warm water in the mason jar and added a third of it to the bucket, stirred for 5 minutes, added another third, stirred for 5 minutes, then the last third and another 5 minutes of stirring. Finally, I gave the shirt another 45 minutes in the dye bath, stirring periodically. I put it in the washing machine, ran a rinse cycle, then washed it with detergent in hot water and tumbled dry. (This technique came from pburch.net, an incredibly thorough site on dyeing.)You can see the result in the far left of the customer image I uploaded. It's hardly the indigo I was going for! In fact, it was a happy accident, because I was planning to turn one of the t-shirts into a raspberry color, and that's exactly what I got. But what went wrong? Well, I did a little research and learned that turquoise is a particularly finicky dye. On the Procion dye jars, it says to mix the dye into cold water, and that's where I went wrong. My research revealed that the water should in fact be at *least* room temperature, if not warmer for turquoise. I even saw some suggestions to put the dye-soaked fabric in the microwave to accelerate the process!I wasn't brave enough to do that, but I was happy to try warmer water with my second shirt. This time, I placed my bucket in a bathtub and filled it with warm-to-hot water, about 110 degrees. I also filled the bathtub with hot water to try to maintain the warm temperature in the bucket. I used much, much more turquoise in the second batch: 2 tsp. of turquoise and only 1/4 tsp. of fuchsia. Otherwise, I followed the procedure exactly as I had for the first shirt. The result was a very pretty periwinkle, not quite the rich indigo I had aimed for, but again, a lovely color I'm thrilled with.(I should note here that the amount of dye you use determines how light or dark the final result. It's suggested to use about 1 tablespoon of dye for a medium color or 2 tablespoons for a dark color, per pound of fabric. You scale up or down based on fabric weight. My t-shirts each weighed just 1/4 pound, so this suggests 1/4 tablespoon for medium or 1/2 tablespoon -- 1 1/2 teaspoons -- for dark. In fact I used more than this, yet got medium colors.)For my final shirt, I wanted to crack open the jar of yellow dye, so I decided to go green. I had definitely learned from the first two rounds that color mixing is an imprecise science. I wanted to err on the side of more turquoise rather than too much yellow (I love lime green but it doesn't suit my complexion at all), so I mixed 2 tsp. turquoise with 1/2 tsp. yellow. This gave a very pretty emerald, pretty much exactly the hue I was aiming for! However, this shirt ended up with blotches in spots and I can only conclude that there were some invisible marks or stains on the t-shirt that only became evident when I dyed it. This is one of the dangers of working with old fabric! Incidentally, I was most worried about the perspiration marks on the shirts, but in all cases those were nearly completely hidden by the dye.I would absolutely recommend this kit if you are willing to roll the dice a bit with respect to color. It's definitely a matter of guesswork, and I found that even testing the dye mix first on a small piece of paper towel or just observing the fabric while it was in the dye bath didn't really give a good indication of what the final result would look like. It's as much about how well the fabric takes the dye (and what technique you use, etc.) as it is about what proportions of colors you use. But it was great fun, and I still have enough dye for many more projects, especially if I replenish my turquoise supply.
L**6
Black does NOT color!
I’ve been tie dying for the past few years and normally used Tulip brand. This year I wanted to step up my game and go with “professional” colors. Most procion colors were gorgeous, vibrant and well worth the money. Black though, black was a complete let down and it’s caused a ton of grief. I don’t know what else to say, the picture speaks for itself. This was supposed to be a black and grey swirl shirt, as you can see, it’s ALL grey!! I followed every proper tie dye step known to man. Washed in synthrapol, soaked in soda ash for 30 minutes, let dye soak for 24 hours. I even double up on the powder for mixing instructions, per the advice of other reviewers, and this is what I have to show for all that hard work. I would have been better off with the drug store tie dye because this black ruined 5 project pieces! I don’t know if they accidentally put grey into a jet black container or not, but that seems to be the only logical explanation for why our black looks like this. My advice, buy a different black. Literally any other brand besides this one for black.
C**)
Good quality product!
Great product! I was attempting to change a thick material set of overalls from orange to black however, the original colour was quite bright to put it mildly. The garment is heavy for a piece of clothing but with one pot, it darkened to a very dull purple. I am confident that another use of this product will result in a perfect, jet black colour. Consistent colouring throughout and has held the shade through several machine washes. Highly recommended as I am sure the results would have been a lot better if the garment was not such a bright orange and/or was a lot lighter in weight. Read many positive reviews on this brand and I am happy to agree with them.
P**J
Jet Black... sometimes.
For the price it's not quite as much as I'd of liked but it was shipped from USA to UK so can't complain there. Orange baby vest is the first time I used the black. Really didn't say "jet black" to me. Second time turned out better. So sadly even though I follow the instructions I'm finding it to be hit and miss. Put the photo of the ruler and crayola pen on so you can judge the time.
D**.
Load of kack
Used for tie due and was a waste of time. Left on cotton shirt for well over 12h and it just washed out leaving a light grey colour. Would not reccomend. Especially as it’s so expensive! I’ve always bought expensive for better quality products, but this is the anomaly
B**Y
Not black it's grey
Gave it 3 stars as it doesn't seem to dye things black they come out grey but however I did like the grey colour very much!
B**Y
Turns pink
No matter how much I mix with water when washed out it isn't red it's pink
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